Since, orchids are mostly native to rainforests. This wet habitat is difficult to simulate at home. Now on sale there are decorative showcases, also suitable for window sills. They create an optimal climate for flowers.
Exotic plants feel comfortable even without a glass cabinet on the windowsill if they are sprayed with warm water once a day. It is enough if the leaves and aerial roots get a light damp haze. A bathroom that has relatively high humidity during showering and bathing is especially suitable for plant living. If the bathroom has a window, then for an orchid these are almost ideal conditions.
For the good development of orchids, you must adhere to certain rules according to the care calendar:
January. Due to the constant darkness and cold temperatures, most orchids will rest or bloom again this month. Accordingly, the fertilizer can be fertilized at most once a month, and watering must be adapted to low temperatures and orchid species. Orchids with very pronounced resting times are not fertilized and hardly watered, and during this time the orchids should not be sprayed as much as possible, otherwise it can easily lead to decay. Despite the low temperature, you should not do without regular ventilation, otherwise fungi and bacteria easily appear. During this very cold month, you need to keep a close eye on the night temperatures around orchids.
February. The main flowering period of orchids continues this month. Climatically, the month practically does not differ from January, therefore the described precautions apply to this period as well. At the end of the month, the sun recovers its strength, the days get longer, and some orchids reward them by starting to grow. In this case, water and fertilizer are gradually increased. Good weather should always be used for ventilation; this is the best defense against bacteria, fungi and other pests. Irrigation water should be at least at ambient temperature, but warm water is very well accepted by plants. Orchids that have started growing in winter can be replanted at the end of the month if needed.
March. For most orchids, the growth time begins and the need for nutrients increases. The amount of water for irrigation should be increased and the application of fertilizing should also be added every 2–3 weeks. Orchids can now be replanted. Due to winter, orchids are weakened and therefore very susceptible to spider mites and sucking insects, which are now active again. In addition, now is the best time to separate the babies from the mother plant. In general, spring is a busy time for orchids.
April. Flowers are in full bloom this month and orchids are growing vigorously. Plants can be easily sprayed regularly in the morning. Sun-sensitive orchids like Phalaenopsis must now be protected from the midday sun. Avoid moving the flower to different locations weekly, but twice a year is normal for plants. Fertilization can be increased further as the flower grows. For specimens especially sensitive to salt, even fertilizers can be dosed for them in half as much as on the package.
May. It should be remembered that plants need to gradually get used to direct morning or evening sunlight, otherwise they can easily burn out. J
June and July. These months are distinguished by three basic rules of care: fresh air, watering, fertilization. In June and July, orchids can get very hot during the day, so you should ventilate the room vigorously. All orchids now need a lot of water. You also need regular fertilization. Spray the plants lightly once a day in summer. The best time to do this is in the evening, as orchids easily get sunburn from the daytime sun. Pay attention to protection from direct sunlight.
August. During this time of year, orchids should stand by an open window as often as possible (even at night). Some species stop growing at too high temperatures. Watering and fertilization should be kept at a high level, as in the previous two months.
September. Now that it’s cooler at night, don’t leave your orchids by an open window. The beginning of autumn provides another opportunity for replanting orchids. The amount of fertilizer and watering should be reduced by the end of the month.
October. Due to the preparation for flowering and the lack of light, it can happen that old leaves turn yellow and fall off. Fertilizer and water supplies must be further reduced and thus adapted to falling temperatures.
November. Many orchids are now starting to rest. Water and fertilizer for flowers with rest periods should be further reduced. The smaller the growth of the orchid, the less the need for both. Plants should receive more light and water during rest. At the beginning of the heating season, humidity increases. Special attention should be paid to spider mites, which can appear on the roots of a plant due to increased moisture.
December. In December, many orchids are grateful for their good care with abundant flowering. But this particular month is the most problematic in terms of lighting conditions. Orchids should now be getting enough light. Due to its lack, some plants drop flowers. A bright place or artificial lighting helps here. Orchids that are resting can only receive a little water without fertilization. In particular, humidity must now be controlled and can be increased with humidifiers or water bowls.
Lighting
In their homeland, orchids know only diffused light. The shade from tall trees mostly protects them from the sun’s rays. Therefore, the sun should not shine brightly on the plants. The morning and evening sun is usually easily tolerated by orchids. But the midday heat in mid-summer causes leaf burns. Dark spots on foliage are typical sunburn damage. Do not expose your orchid to direct sunlight. Ideally, place the orchid on an east or west windowsill to avoid the bright midday sun. A north window will also work, but only if it is not also exposed to bright sunlight.
Temperature
Plants originating from warmer countries are very sensitive to cold when the thermometer drops below 16 ° C. Tropical plants feel most comfortable when the air is heated between 18 ° C and 24 ° C. The temperature may drop slightly at night, but again should be at least 16 ° C.
Watering
An important point in orchid care is water quality. Orchids in nature are irrigated with rainwater, but there is a small amount of salt in it. The water in our plumbing in the apartment contains different amounts of salt depending on the region, which in this case is usually called lime. Water for watering flowers should contain as little salt as possible. Enemy number 1 of any orchid is rot. It leads to the death of the plant within a few weeks. Many orchids that grow in our homes meet this fate for only one reason: they are literally flooded. Although some orchids come from tropical rainforest, they usually live in trees. There they dry out after rain for a short time. So be careful. In winter, watering once a week is sufficient for medium-sized planters. In summer, you should water twice a week. How often you need to water your orchid depends on the size of the pot and, of course, the type of orchid.
The second important rule is that if an orchid is growing, it needs more water, it does not show active growth – watering should be limited. Excess water should drain from the bottom of the planter. Pots that sell orchids usually have holes in the bottom from which water can drain. Water should not accumulate in the pot and heat the orchid.
There is a simple trick to check if an orchid needs water: raise it with a pot for a short time. If the plant seems unusually light, it should be watered. If the pot is still heavy, do not water. In addition, it makes sense to place a layer of expanded clay or pebbles 2-3 cm thick. Excess water is absorbed by this layer. Under no such circumstances should the plant stand in water, otherwise rot is inevitable. Durable orchid hybrids carry tap water. But it is better to pass it through a filter before watering the plant, or pour it into a bottle in advance and let it brew. The water used should be at room temperature. You should never leave drops of water on the plant after watering, as this quickly spreads the fungus, which is noticeable by the spots on the leaves.
Humidity.
Humidity plays an important role in orchid care. Why does this factor matter? The surrounding air always contains a certain amount of water, which is called humidity. Humidity in our apartments in winter is often very low. The cold air that enters the apartment from the outside does not contain much water due to low temperatures, and in the room it is quickly heated by heaters.
Orchids have the ability to absorb water from the air through their aerial roots. Moisture is also important for the leaves. If the air is dry, too much water evaporates from the leaves into the environment, the leaves dry out. But high humidity can cause problems. In these climates, fungi and bacteria grow quickly and can harm the plant. The humidity around the orchid should be at least 40% and not more than 80%.
Many epiphytic orchids come from tropical or subtropical areas where humidity is often higher, even in the so-called “dry season”, than in homes. This is why plants are stressed in dry air. Since fungi and bacteria can become active if the humidity is too high, there should always be sufficient air movement. This is achieved with a fan that runs 24 hours a day.
Humidity is measured with a hygrometer. Place it near the plants. Too high humidity can be easily reduced by increased ventilation. It is more difficult to raise humidity values that are too low.
The following measures can help:
Spraying. Spraying plants is the easiest and fastest way to fix the situation. In winter, however, there is a risk of rotting due to low temperatures and lack of light. Therefore, plants should be sprayed only in the morning, avoiding direct sunlight, the best .. Water bowls. Another possibility is to install a water bowl. They can be filled with expanded clay. Trays should be cleaned regularly or dried promptly to prevent the spread of bacteria. Such containers maintain a favorable microclimate near orchids, but only slightly increase the humidity.
Aquariums. Orchids with special moisture requirements can be stored well in open windowsill aquariums. A layer of expanded clay about 8 cm thick should be placed at the bottom. It absorbs moisture, and the water in the pots does not stagnate. The liquid evaporates and a humid microclimate is created. The aquarium should not be closed on top so that the orchids get extra fresh air. Such structures increase the humidity around orchids up to 20%.
Electronic humidifiers. a particularly effective method of increasing humidity is the use of electronic humidifiers. Models that spray water and then distribute it with a fan in the room are especially suitable.
Fertilizer In the treetops of the jungle, orchids receive more light than on the ground, but the supply of nutrients is very modest. Thus, frequent use of dressings does not contribute to the good development of the flower. The roots are very sensitive to salt and die off when too much fertilizer is used.
There is a simple rule for fertilization: if a new leaf or shoot grows on an orchid, fertilize should be applied. If the orchid does not grow, you can do without feeding. Since most orchids grow from spring to fall, they should be fertilized every 2-4 weeks during this time. In any case, always add clean water between fertilizers to wash away any remaining salt. In winter, less fertilizer should be used. Formulated for orchids to meet the needs of these crops, based on their nutritional composition and are more diluted than other fertilizers. You should never exceed the dilution rate indicated on the package, rather it makes sense to use only half the concentration.
What nutrients do orchids need?
Nitrogen for Leaf and Shoot Growth: Nitrogen promotes healthy growth of annual shoots and leaves. Nitrogen deficiency can be recognized by the small yellow leaves, an abundance of soft plant tissue.
Phosphorus for root and flower growth: Phosphorus promotes flowering and healthy root growth. Phosphorus deficiency can be recognized by the red color of the leaves, especially the underside of the leaves.
Calcium promotes growth: Calcium ensures that the plant can absorb and use other important micronutrients. It also promotes growth, especially of the roots.
Potassium increases resistance: Potassium promotes metabolic processes in the orchid, which increases their resistance. Potassium deficiency can lead to soft tissue in the plant and stunted growth.
Magnesium promotes metabolism: Magnesium also promotes healthy growth as it promotes metabolic processes. If there is a magnesium deficiency, the leaves remain light green.
Transfer When the pot becomes too tight, the roots of the plant have grown out of it, you need to repot the flower. Spring is the best time to replant most orchids.
Do it like this:
Water the plant liberally. Prepare everything you need before transplanting: a new planter, sharp scissors, orchid substrate, expanded clay. Now remove the plant from the pot, taking care not to damage the roots. Gently shake off the old substrate from the roots. It is better to leave poorly separated pieces of bark on the plant, so as not to damage the roots. It may also be helpful to rinse off any remaining substrate with running, lukewarm water. Now examine the roots for pests. Cut off rotten or dead roots. Don’t cut off healthy roots. Place a thin layer of expanded clay or expanded polystyrene in a new pot as drainage. Now insert the plant into the pot with a gentle twisting motion. Fill with new substrate using a mixture of moss, oak bark. Water. After about 5 days, you can water again. The leaves can be sprayed daily. Fertilize only after 3-4 weeks. When transplanting, pay special attention to the roots: try not to damage them. You cannot fertilize the plant immediately after transplanting! It is worth paying attention to the choice of an orchid pot. It is preferable to keep plants in clear plastic pots. This is explained by the fact that the roots of the orchid also absorb light and participate in photosynthesis like the leaves.
Reproduction
The main type of orchid breeding is reproduction by children.They appear on peduncles initially in the form of a bud, and then develop into a full-fledged plant with leaves and aerial roots.
After the development of a new process, the peduncle is cut 2 cm below the baby and placed in a separate pot with wood filler.
Diseases and pests
The most common causes of bacterial, fungal and viral problems are insect pests, plant injuries, or handling non-sterile tools in combination with sub-optimal cultivation conditions.
Viruses
The most unpleasant and irreparable thing is the infection of orchids with viruses. Plants can be infected with viruses, but this does not appear externally. None of the known virus defenses help. In this case, there is only one way out – to destroy the plant.
Fungal diseases The reasons for the spread are too humid environment, lack of air exchange and fresh air. Auxiliaries: in case of localized limited infestation, parts of the plant are removed, fungicides are used and the cultivation conditions are improved.
Bacteriosis
Bacteriosis occurs whenever water accumulates on leaves or leaf axils for a long time. The tissues of the plant suffer from this. Avoid stagnant water in various parts of the plant.
Pests Pests can be divided into three groups:
Group 1: woodlice, silverfish and nematodes live on plant material, practically do not harm the plant. Control: Reduce watering, keep the plant a little dry, and pick up pests by hand.
Group 2: snails feed on plant parts or whole plants. Most effective antidotes, prevention and collection.
Group 3: Sucking pests cause the most damage. These include primarily aphids. They multiply quickly and can do a lot of damage. Auxiliary product: use of insecticides and special plant spraying. Insects have a favorite spot on the underside of the leaves. It is best to apply any edible oil with a cotton swab to the insect colony, then the aphid will suffocate. Never rub with your fingers, this will distribute the fry and eggs over the entire leaf area!
Main problems
The most common problems with growing orchids are culturally related. The table shows the factors and manifestations of deviations:
Shine
Too bright light: leaves are either pale yellow or reddish brown (protective pigments), “sunburn” (dead, brown areas). Lack of light: leaves are dark green, the whole plant is lethargic, weak, often deformed.
Temperature
Too cold: no or little growth, new leaves or new leaves remain small, no flowering. Too warm: leaves are flabby, sometimes pale green, grow poorly.
Water
Too little: the leaves are withered and dry, sometimes the accordion of the leaves, the roots are too light and too dry. Too much: the roots are damaged, the plant matter is decomposed, it smells musty, the leaves are flabby and sunken.
Fertilizers
Too little: plant growth is weak, leaf color is unhealthy, no flowering. Too much: damage to the roots, therefore often loose, sunken leaves, brown leaf tips.
Humidity
Too low: deformation of leaf growth, adhesion of bracts, adhesion of shoots, increased sticky droplets at the edges of leaves and flower stems. Too high: sagging, weak leaves, often spots on leaves and bulbs due to fungal infection.
Despite some difficulties in caring for orchids, these are some of the longest flowering plants.Flowers delight in their color and shape.Your interior will be transformed with exotic flowers.
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After the development of a new process, the peduncle is cut 2 cm below the baby and placed in a separate pot with wood filler.
